May 20, 2010 by Richard | Posted in Music & Music Players
I am in the UK. I have a lot of music stored on an external hard drive attached to my laptop PC, which is connected to a wireless network in the house.
In each of the lounge, dining room, kitchen, and bedroom I would like to have a pair of speakers and a user interface to select music to play in that room from the hard drive. Preferably I would like to have the option of playing different music in each room, of course.
Other than the Sonos systems, what other options are there? Is there a way to bodge a system from relatively inexpensive components to achieve the result I want?
It would be great if I could also play radio in each of the rooms, but not essential.
What interfaces do I need to look for when buying the components, to make sure everything will be compatible?
Thanks all!
BTW, by inexpensive I mean costing no more than around £300 (US$500). I see there are some fancy systems out there for £1000+, but I don't have that kind of budget!
May 20, 2010 by Meladi C | Posted in Maintenance & Repairs
We just moved into a new house. The last two places I've lived since building my computer were able to handle the electrical draw just fine. When I try to turn on the computer, the breaker trips and I have to go reset the GFCI. At first I just though it was the outlet since it was extremely loose and wired poorly, so I replaced the receptacle and tried again. Both the old and the new receptacles were rated for 120-volts and 15-amps, the same as the last two houses. The power supply is 850-watts (keep in mind that this is the maximum value, it rarely uses that much power, so the amperage usually sits significantly lower than the theoretical 7.72-amp maximum). The computer is plugged into a 2,250-joule surge protector along with the 22" LCD flat-panel monitor, wireless printer, and 20-watt speakers. There is nothing else running on that circuit that I know of. I know the current it draws at startup is less than 15-amps, because when the surge protector is connected to an extension cord and plugged into an outlet on another circuit (same electrical rating), the computer turns on fine. So I'm led to a few conclusions: either the circuit breaker is faulty/hypersensitive and needs replacing, the fuse needs to be upped to a higher amperage, or the GFCI needs to be replaced.
I'm not interested in running an extension cord down the hallway to power my computer, I'd rather fix the problem with that circuit. And I am itching to finish Mass Effect 2, so helpful answers are greatly appreciated.
@Professional remodeler: The GFCI is located in the bathroom. I replaced the outlet that I'm trying to run the computer from, not the GFCI. I have run an extension cord to another circuit, and the GFCI for that circuit did not trip.
@Irv S: I've tried plugging the computer directly into the wall, no such luck that way either. So I know my surge protector isn't causing the problem, especially since it worked fine on another circuit.
I'm thinking the GFCI is most likely bad, but I don't want to waste time playing around with it if it turns out that's not the case. Is there a way to further test it before replacing it?
First I would want to know if anything else is on that circuit. If you have a meter, check the amperage at the panel.
If you don’t have a meter you could shut the circuit down and search the house to make sure nothing else is tied into that.
If that is ok, then the GFI most likely is bad. They do become weak over time/use and will trip as you have described.
T C | May 20, 2010
Do you have a 2nd GFCI outlet in the house? Try running an extension cord temporarily and plug your computer in. If the 2nd GFCI doesn't trip, then you have a bad breaker. Replace it. Others said to replace the GFCI, but if I read your question correctly, you already replaced it. If the 2nd GFCI pops, I would suspect the battery back-up unit as the culprit.
Professional remodeler | May 20, 2010
First off, I'd look at that surge protector.
It might have failed and be producing a limited ground fault that's tripping the GFI.
Try taking that out of the circuit.
Irv S | May 20, 2010
May not be a bad GFCI, Could be a bad ground. This would make even a light load trip it. Try plugging in a night light, if it trips, it is not the plug but the ground. You will need to take it out and strip the wires back more and reinsert into the GFCI.
May 20, 2010 by Will | Posted in Computer Networking
Okay so I bought a Belkin router the other day when the old one went dead. Moved the regular computer that has every thing connected around it (computer itself, modem, speakers, and router) just across the freaking room, and until we started moving did the router work just fine. But it's on and connected... (the router was for my laptop; the other computer works fine with just the modem itself but without this router I have no internet) but I'm not getting any Internet! And the thing that sucks the most is that I've got a new iPod touch where I keep up with ESPN and Weather Channel and now I can't access those!
Does this problem ring a bell? I pull diagnostics up on the computer but it doesn't do any good. It's just has advice on "troubleshooting" or something (I'm not computer wiz)
But these are the tips...
1.) Your computer is too far from the wireless router... um, as we speak, my laptop is right in front of the router.
2.) The wireless router is turned off or is not working properly- Well it's ON and working obviously but it's not working properly FOR ME.
3.) There is interference with other devices- Like what? Surely noone else can use this connection because I'm the only one that knows the password and to use that connection, you have to type in the code.
So obviously, I'm pissed off and I need help. Thank you for your help, everybody. It'd be appreciated.
May 19, 2010 by Arnold S | Posted in Other - Electronics
Can I use the WES600 Wireless Stereo Speaker System with a Dell computer that's about 4 years old?? The amazon link for them:
http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Machines-292 97W-Wireless-Speaker/dp/B002CCSSOY
May 19, 2010 by VPRO | Posted in Laptops & Notebooks
im gonna buy a HP pavilion DV2 for about 500 $ . which has these specs
Operating system installed
Genuine Windows Vista® Home Premium with Service Pack 1 (32-bit)
Processor type
AMD Athlon™ Neo Processor for Ultrathin Notebooks MV-40
• 1.60GHz, Level 2 cache 512KB
Standard memory
1GB DDRII
Memory layout
(1 x 1024MB)
Maximum memory
Supports up to 4GB DDR2 memory
Internal drives
Internal drives
250GB
Storage controller
SATA Hard Disk Drive
Hard disk drive speed
5400 rpm
System features
Memory card device
5-in-1 integrated Digital Media Reader for Secure Digital cards, MultiMedia cards, Memory Stick, Memory Stick Pro, or xD Picture cards
Network interface
Ethernet 10/100BT integrated network interface
Wireless technologies
802.11b/g WLAN /
Wireless capability
Bluetooth® wireless networking
External I/O ports
3 USB 2.0, 1 HDMI connector, 1 VGA , 1 RJ45 ethernet connector, 1 headphones-out, 1 mic-in
Display size
12.1” Diagonal WXGA High-Definition* HP LED BrightView Widescreen Display
Display resolution
1280 x 800
Graphic subsystem name
ATI Mobility Radeon HD 3410
Video RAM
192 MB Dedicated
Control panel
HP Mediasmart media player software and its dedicated menu controls, music and DVD buttons
Webcam
HP Webcam with Integrated Microphone
Internal audio
3D Sound Blaster Pro compatible sound 16 bit integrated
Speakers and microphone
Audio Playback SRS Premium Sound
Keyboard
92% full size keyboard
Power supply type
65 W AC Power Adapter
Pointing device
Touch Pad with On/Off button and dedicated vertical Scroll Up/Down pad, volume control, mute button
Battery type
6-cell Lithium-Ion (Li-Ion) battery
May 19, 2010 by Jamie | Posted in Laptops & Notebooks
what it has...
Ports :3x USB 2.0,1x SDCard slot,1xRJ45
Audio/Video :Integrated Quadraphonic Speakers,1x 1/8" (3.5mm) Headphone/Line-Out,1x 1/8" (3.5mm) Microphone,Input 1x Integrated Microphone
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